Thursday, 31 December 2009

Day 30 – Huaraz to Lima


Puya Raymondi may sound like an Italian footballer but is in fact a type of pineapple plant – although that may not stop Harry Redknapp paying £25 million for one. We stopped to look at these 12m cactus-like giants on our way to the Pastoruri Glacier which is melting at an alarming rate due to global warming and all those selfish people who continue to fly around the world. The strenuous climb took us to over 5000m and gave us fantastic views over the Cordillera Blanca range. It was so good that we almost forgot that the tour guide did not speak English, despite the shady tour operator who had taken our money charging us extra with the assurance that he would. I got my own back by looking blank-faced at the small amount of English he did have and insisting I only spoke Hebrew.


We found a great place to eat in town, it was run by a man from Blackburn who cooked and served authentic Northern British cuisine – curry. It was fantastic.


In the evening I boarded an eight hour night bus headed for Lima (home of everyone's favourite illegal immigrant – Paddington Bear). Unlike Ecuador, Peru has different levels of service on the buses so we stepped up from the standard to the superior class and were rewarded with super-reclining seats and an in-drive meal that would put RyanAir to shame. Granted a soggy spam sandwich would put RyanAir to shame, but you know what I mean.


Day 29 – Huarez


Feeling far more refreshed than yesterday, I mustered enough strength – it is seriously hard to breathe up here – to try and get some information from the dozen trekking companies and hundreds of shysters around town. After some negotiation and quite a considerable amount of time, the fella caught on that I didn't want to spend $300 on a walk 'I don't care if they carry my bags, cook my breakfast and scrub my pants, I'm not paying it'.


No thanks not even the $100 one. $12 you say? Done. That only took 2 hours.


Feeling far less refreshed than I was two hours ago I headed for the thermal baths of Monterrey and the promise of "The perfect way to recover after an ardous day'. As the water was the colour of a well made gravy it did diminish the effect slightly – I always like to at least see below my waist when in a pool of water. Still it was a good way to spend the afternoon.


Sud América Gut Rot League © – All change at the top as I have discovered a fine porter, paradoxically called Polar, and a cheeky little number called Cristal which is the best beer I have had by far.


1. Cristal

2. Pilsen Polar

3. Franca

4. Cusqueña Negra

5. Conquer

Day 28 – Huaraz


The bus journey was fine, the motorbike/taxi combination bumpy and our hostel great with fantastic views of the surrounding snow capped mountains, but this Andean air (Huaraz is over 3000m above sea level) is thinner than an Ethiopian supermodel. The place is also full of touts who are relentless in their goal to separate you from your hard earned cash in exchange for as little as possible. Being tired, breathless and in no mood to haggle I spent a very lazy day just looking around the town.


Anyone who has read the book (or seen the film) 'Into The Void' – an epic tale of a disastrous mountain expedition – will have heard of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range which is where Huaraz is located and just about every bar/hostel has a copy of the film, which is what I spent my evening watching.


Sud América Street Snack League © – A new kid on the block has just blown all opposition out of the water:


1. Spicy chicken Empanada – $0.60

2. Fried meat and plantain balls with a shredded salad – $1.50

3. Beef, salami and plantain kebab – $0.75

4. Plantain and cheese fritter – $1.00

5. Tortilla – $0.30