Overnight the rain came and by morning it was torrential, I decided to stay put in the hotel until check-out at noon and then have a look around the city in the spare few hours before I had to catch an overnight train to the Brazilian border. The only flaw in this plan – as I soon discovered – was that everything in the city closes at noon to escape the heat of the day.
The first-class train I had planned to take was fully sold out for the next five days, so I was forced to book a ticket on... wait for it... The Death Train! If the road didn't get me, the train was going to have a second shot.
No one seemed quite sure why it was called The Death Train and the best explanation I got was that it often stops in the middle of nowhere for hours on end during which time the passengers are savaged by swarms of mosquitos. Calling it The Aggravation Train seemed about right, but The Death Train seemed a bit strong.
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